Inside ‘The Loyal’ in the West Village

After a career at New York hot spots like Narcissa, Dovetail and Nix, chef John Fraser has expanded to the West Village corner of Bleecker Street and Seventh Avenue with The Loyal, a modernized take on an American brasserie.
“My first job in restaurants was in American brasseries that were really solid, good food where people could eat right — and I say the word ‘eat’ that way given the stigma of dining, which is sort of this process of taking your time and going through multiple courses, versus sitting down, getting nourished, having a couple of drinks and going along your way,” Fraser says. “And as I’ve gone through my career I’ve felt some departure from that kind of simple, straightforward [cooking]. This is meant to take on the idea of ‘what if the American brasserie was invented today?’”
A prime example of his ideal way to cook is his take on a burger. “It’s seasoned beef topped with cheese and a roasted tomato. The roasted tomato we essentially trapped in the middle of the tomato the flavors of ketchup, so that when you smash it onto the top of the burger, the flavor of ketchup is there sort of secretly,”

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